Ujjain, one of the oldest living cities in India, is home to the powerful and sacred Mahakaleshwar Temple. Visiting this Jyotirlinga had always been on my spiritual wishlist, and recently, I had the chance to make the journey. What unfolded was not just a temple visit, but a beautiful experience filled with peace, ancient culture, divine energy, and unforgettable memories.
Table of Contents
Getting to Ujjain – By Train
We began our journey by train, arriving at Ujjain Railway Station in the evening. As expected, a crowd of auto-rickshaw drivers gathered around offering rides, quoting up to Rs. 300. However, with some bargaining, we managed to get an auto for Rs. 100 to our accommodation, Shankaracharya Math.
Tip: For short distances (under 2 miles), fair price for autos is around Rs. 10-20. Don’t hesitate to bargain!

Where I Stayed – Shankaracharya Math
Instead of booking a hotel, we chose to stay at Shankaracharya Math, just 1 km away from the Mahakaleshwar Temple. This math isn’t just a lodging place — it’s a center for Vedic studies where students live and learn ancient scriptures and mantra chanting. The environment was filled with peace and spiritual energy.
We paid Rs. 1500 for one day for a room for four people. The math also served two wholesome meals a day. Sharing meals with students and teachers felt like being part of a big spiritual family. The walk to the temple from here was serene and refreshing.

First Glimpse of Mahakal – Reaching Late at Night
After settling in, we headed straight to the Mahakaleshwar Temple. Unfortunately, we arrived late — the entry closes at 10 PM and the main doors shut by 11 PM. We had to return without darshan that night. It was disappointing, but also a valuable lesson in planning.
Tip: Make sure to reach the temple gates before 9:30 PM to avoid missing darshan.

Exploring Ujjain Temples in a Day
The next morning, To avoid the rush, we left for the temples at 6 AM. We hired an auto for Rs. 450 to explore Ujjain’s famous temples. In just a few hours, we visited:
Shri Gadkalika Mandir – A temple known for its powerful energy.
Sthirman Ganesh Mandir – A calming spot to offer prayers.
Shri Kal Bhairav Mandir – Famous for offering liquor as prasad.
Shri Mangalnath Mandir – Known as the birthplace of planet Mars (Mangal).
Shri Sandipani Ashram – The place where Lord Krishna is said to have received his education.
Our driver dropped us back near Mahakal Mandir after this spiritual circuit.
VIP Darshan at Mahakaleshwar Temple – Morning Experience
We reached Gate No. 4 by 8:30 AM. We opted for VIP entry (Shighra Darshan) which cost Rs. 250 per person. The darshan was smooth, quick, and deeply satisfying. Standing in front of the self-manifested (Swayambhu) Jyotirlinga of Lord Shiva is an experience beyond words. You can visit shri mahakelshwar website.
Tip: Carry exact cash for VIP tickets and use Gate No. 4 for quicker access.

Visiting Vikramaditya Tila and Bada Ganesh Mandir
After Mahakaleshwar Temple darshan, we visited Samrat Vikramaditya Ka Tila, a historical site tied to the legendary king. It’s a peaceful place to reflect and take in the ancient vibes of Ujjain. Right nearby is the Bada Ganesh Mandir, known for its massive idol of Lord Ganesha.


About the Bhasm Aarti at Mahakaleshwar
One of the most iconic rituals at Mahakaleshwar Temple is the Bhasm Aarti, performed at 3 AM daily. It’s the only place in the world where sacred ash (bhasm) is used to worship Lord Shiva. Unfortunately, we couldn’t attend this due to limited booking — only 200 people are allowed, and tickets need to be reserved at least two days in advance. Since we were there for only two days, we missed it, but it’s now on our list for next time.
Tip: Book Bhasm Aarti tickets 2 days in advance.
Journey to Omkareshwar – A Divine Detour
Later that day, we planned a trip to Omkareshwar, about 150 km from Ujjain. We booked a car for Rs. 3000 (for 300 km) through a local agency and paid Rs. 500 as an advance.
On our way, we stopped at Indore for lunch, then continued towards Omkareshwar, reaching by 4 PM. The Narmada River greeted us with calm beauty. We had two options to reach the temple: a bridge or a boat. We chose the boat ride for Rs. 50 per person, enjoying the view.

Darshan at Omkareshwar and Return
We inquired about VIP darshan and were told it could be booked online for Rs. 300. from omkareshwar website Upon booking, we were given a paper wristband. The darshan was smooth and peaceful. For the return boat ride, we bargained and got it for Rs. 30 per person. The entire visit took just over an hour.
We did some quick shopping and headed back to Ujjain, reaching in 2.5 hours. On the way, we stopped at a beautiful open-air hotel called Charpai. It was full of greenery, and the food and service were top-notch. This was the perfect stop to relax and reflect on our journey.

Travel Tips for First-Time Visitors
Reach Mahakaleshwar Temple early (before 6 AM) for a peaceful darshan.
VIP entry is worth the extra money.
Stay close to the temple — Shankaracharya Math is ideal.
Book Bhasm Aarti tickets in advance.
Auto-rickshaw prices can be negotiated.
Carry cash for small payments and temple tickets.
Suggested 2-Day Ujjain Itinerary
Day 1:
Arrival at Ujjain
Check-in at Shankaracharya Math
Visit local temples (Gadkalika, Kal Bhairav, etc.)
Dinner and rest
Day 2:
Early morning VIP darshan at Mahakaleshwar
Visit Vikramaditya Tila and Bada Ganesh Mandir
Leave for Omkareshwar after breakfast
Darshan and return via Charpai hotel
Final Thoughts – A Journey Worth Taking
This journey to Mahakaleshwar and Omkareshwar wasn’t just a pilgrimage — it was a soulful experience. From the peaceful stay at Shankaracharya Math to the VIP darshan, from missing the Bhasm Aarti to the serene Narmada river crossing — every moment left a lasting impression. Ujjain is a place where history, devotion, and inner peace come together beautifully.
If you’re seeking a break from your busy life and want to reconnect with something deeper, plan a trip to Ujjain. You’ll return with more than memories — you’ll return with peace.
[…] Mahakaleshwar – Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh (visit this link for travel guide) […]